The Darkroom
The darkroom is a room that is void of all white light, used to create and develop photograms and other light-sensitive images. The room is lit by a safe light, which is a red light that photographic paper doesn't (Or minimally) react to, making it safe to handle photographic paper (Which would otherwise turn black if exposed to other light).
In the darkroom, you can create images called 'photograms'. These are photographic images made without a camera by placing objects on light-sensitive materials (E.g. photographic paper) and exposing it to light.
In the darkroom, you can create images called 'photograms'. These are photographic images made without a camera by placing objects on light-sensitive materials (E.g. photographic paper) and exposing it to light.
Within the darkroom, there are machines called 'enlargers'. These are machines can be used to create photograms. They achieve this by having a white light bulb in the centre, and a red light filter over it. This way you can line up your photogram and make sure the light is on it, before exposing it to white light for a certain amount of time.
Now, the photograms aren't ready the moment light hits them. They first have to be developed.
There are four stages to developing a photogram. The first stage is to put it in the developer, which makes the image appear. Once the image has developed, you place it in stop, which stops the developing process so the image doesn't overdevelop an turn black. You keep it in there for around 30 seconds, before taking it out and putting it in fix. This washes the stop off and fixes the image in place. The photogram should be left in the fix for around 4-5 minutes, however leaving it in longer doesn't have any negative effects. Finally, you wash it off in a water bath to get rid of all excess chemicals on the photo. You can then leave it to dry (or use a dryer) and see the finished product.
While doing this process, tongs should be used, as exposure to the chemicals can cause irritation or burns to the skin if contact is made for extended periods.
While doing this process, tongs should be used, as exposure to the chemicals can cause irritation or burns to the skin if contact is made for extended periods.
What Can You Make?
After all the explaining, you may be wondering what you can make here. There are many different ways to create photograms, resulting in many different effects which can help better convey what you want the image to represent. These techniques will be listed, but the first things you need are...
Test strips
Test strips are used to test how bright the light from the enlarger should be, and how long the image should be exposed for. To test the length of exposure, you should place a piece of photographic paper under the light and cover a fraction with black card. Once you've exposed it, move the card to reveal more of the paper, and expose it again. Keep repeating this until you expose the entire sheet to light, and then develop it.
Test strips
Test strips are used to test how bright the light from the enlarger should be, and how long the image should be exposed for. To test the length of exposure, you should place a piece of photographic paper under the light and cover a fraction with black card. Once you've exposed it, move the card to reveal more of the paper, and expose it again. Keep repeating this until you expose the entire sheet to light, and then develop it.
The test strip will have even lines going across it, showing different shades of grey as the exposure is increased. The darker the line, the more exposure it's had. You can also add an object spanning the length of the paper, making you able to see what affect it will have with an object so you can better pick the length of exposure.
The process is similar with how bright the light should be, however there are some differences.
Instead of repeatedly exposing the paper, you expose in segments, covering all aside from the part you want to expose. Once you've done one line, cover what you have done and move onto the next segment. Repeat until the whole sheet has been exposed, and you will have similar results. It is better to test time instead of brightness, as it takes less time and is easier to do.
The process is similar with how bright the light should be, however there are some differences.
Instead of repeatedly exposing the paper, you expose in segments, covering all aside from the part you want to expose. Once you've done one line, cover what you have done and move onto the next segment. Repeat until the whole sheet has been exposed, and you will have similar results. It is better to test time instead of brightness, as it takes less time and is easier to do.
TEchniques
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Normal Photogram A normal photogram is made by exposing photographic paper to light while objects (For example scissors and keys) obscure part of it. This will mean that the parts of the paper will not develop, as they haven't been exposed to light. Once exposed, develop as normal and the image will form. Painting on Developer Painting on developer involves creating a photogram normally, up until development. Instead of placing the image directly into developer, you use a brush to 'paint' the developer onto the paper, making the image expose in streams and streaks. Then finish the process as normal Solarisation Solarisation is the act of re-exposing half developed images. First make a photogram like usual, and place into developer. However, when the image starts appearing, wash it with water for around 10 seconds and re-expose it to light for a short time (Around 2 seconds). Once re-exposed, place it back into developer and let it develop fully. Finish with the stop and fix as normal. Double exposure Double exposure involves exposing photographic paper to light twice before developing. To do this, place whatever objects you would like to capture on the paper and expose to light for half the time you would normally. Next, move the objects around and expose for the rest of the time and develop as usual. |
NOTE : Most of these techniques work with other images such as photos taken using pinhole cameras
You still need to explain and illustrate (with your own images):
- Test strips
- Different processes (eg. sandwich prints, painting on developer, solarising, weaving)
Taking photos with a can
Creating images using a can is not as hard as it may first sound! The concept of a pin-hole camera started as far back as 1856, where it was documented in "The Stereoscope" by Scottish inventor David Brewster and described as a "Camera without lenses, and with only a pin-hole."
The way a pinhole camera works is by creating an entirely light-proof environment, save for a small hole in one area. This hole filters the image into the light-proof environment and projects an inverted image onto the surface of the area. This can be replicated by using a can, where the top is able to be removed and blocks all light inside, while a pin-hole is made in the side. Photographic paper can then be placed into the can, and once exposed to the image wanted (by uncovering the pin hole, and quickly covering it again) can be preserved on the photographic paper.
Here are some example images :
The way a pinhole camera works is by creating an entirely light-proof environment, save for a small hole in one area. This hole filters the image into the light-proof environment and projects an inverted image onto the surface of the area. This can be replicated by using a can, where the top is able to be removed and blocks all light inside, while a pin-hole is made in the side. Photographic paper can then be placed into the can, and once exposed to the image wanted (by uncovering the pin hole, and quickly covering it again) can be preserved on the photographic paper.
Here are some example images :
Once again, you are missing the images of the photos you took.
Pin Hole Artists
Ben Nathan
Examples of his work?
Examples of his work?
SLR Cameras
A SLR camera is a camera that uses film to capture images. This film can then be developed to show the photos you took. The SLR stands for Single Lens Reflex, as there is only a single lens at the front of the camera where mirrors reflect the image to the viewfinder. The 'Reflex' part is where the mirror flips up to expose the film behind it to the image, using the same mechanism as the pinhole camera to imprint the image onto the film before flipping back down once the time is up.
The Exposure Triangle
On the camera, there is three options to change exposure, known as the exposure triangle. These three options are Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO/ASA
The Exposure Triangle
On the camera, there is three options to change exposure, known as the exposure triangle. These three options are Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO/ASA
Shutter Speed
Shutter speed controls how fast the mirror flips up and down, and therefore how long the image is exposed for. This can usually be changed using a dial on the top of the camera with numbers from 1 - 1000, representing fractions of a second. 1 is the longest, while 1000 is the shortest (1/1000 of a second)
Aperture
Aperture is how wide the opening of the lens is. This controls how much light is let in. The less light let in, the longer the exposure time has to be, and the more focused the background of the image will be. More light being let in will have a less focused image, however is good in low-light environments (Eg. Night)
ISO / ASA
ISO is the how sensitive film is to light. They usually range from 200 to 1600, and with film cameras, this is predetermined on the film you use. If you have a bright picture, a lower range ISO is best (Eg. 200) while dark pictures are best taken using high ISO (Eg. 1600). This is because the ISO relates to the light-sensitive emulsion layer on the film. So, when taking photos, pick the film that will best suit the situation.
Taking Photos and Developing Film
The task given was to take photos with different apertures and shutter speeds. We took pictures of each other and of movement, changing the aperture and shutter speed each time. This was to see the effects that aperture, shutter speed, and movement had on photos. Once we finished the film, we took them back to the darkroom and unravelled it. This is so we could line it up
Foundation Assessment
Plenty of descriptions and overviews of the different processes and techniques (AO2), however, I know you worked hard to create prints in the darkroom. Where are they all, do you still have them? The most important part of your weebly is the practical work. Perhaps you focus too much on the writing.
The images you do have also demonstrate an understanding but make more of them on your weebly. For example, pairs of images could be the full width of your site or you could use a gallery. Some appropriate experimentation in your photograms and there is some consideration of composition. (AO3) Composition is stronger in the pinhole camera images where you have exploited the distortiion in pinhole images. (AO3)
Plenty of descriptions and overviews of the different processes and techniques (AO2), however, I know you worked hard to create prints in the darkroom. Where are they all, do you still have them? The most important part of your weebly is the practical work. Perhaps you focus too much on the writing.
The images you do have also demonstrate an understanding but make more of them on your weebly. For example, pairs of images could be the full width of your site or you could use a gallery. Some appropriate experimentation in your photograms and there is some consideration of composition. (AO3) Composition is stronger in the pinhole camera images where you have exploited the distortiion in pinhole images. (AO3)